Dreaming of Zagreb
I’d mentally planned my trip to Zagreb so many times. Me, coffee in hand, weaving through pastel coloured streets, basking in that slower, quieter capital city pace and seeing the mighty St. Mark’s church rooftop for myself. And this year, we finally made it happen. A long weekend in Croatia’s capital, paired with a hop over to Ljubljana… more on that soon!
I’d been buzzing to see the roof at St Mark’s Church in particular – that geometric masterpiece you always see in the SkyScanner results page. It was high on my list. What I didn’t account for was a city where most of the main sights were either fenced off, scaffolded, or shut.
Still, if you’ve followed me for a while, you’ll know we’re not checklist travellers. We love seeing the bones of a city – where people live, drink, shop, chat. We’ll always seek out the main sights, of course, but we’re not above skipping a museum if there’s a good market nearby or a plaza calling our name.
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Start your Zagrab Weekend with Carbs, Coffee and Cobblestones
We kicked off our first day with breakfast at Bread Club, and I’m not exaggerating when I say it might be one of my top bakeries in Europe. The pastries are absurd in the best way. If you only eat at one place in Zagreb, make it Bread Club.
Fuelled up on carbs and coffee, we cobbled together our own DIY intro tour. No walking tours suited our times, so we loaded up Google Maps and set off by foot.
Markets, mishaps and missed funiculars
We started at Britanski Trg (British Square) rummaging through stalls filled with vintage trinkets, war medals, old currency and the odd dusty passport. A proper treasure trove, especially if you’re into secondhand oddities with a story.
From there we wandered to Ban Jelačić Square and then up to Dolac Market, which spills down a couple of levels and buzzes with fresh fruit, flowers and old-school charm. It’s all elbows and chatter in the best possible way.
Just behind the market is Zagreb Cathedral. Since the 2020 earthquake, it’s been wrapped in scaffolding. You can just about catch a glimpse of its spires if you squint through the mesh. It’s eerie and impressive at the same time – a good reminder that cities don’t pause for travellers.
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Getting high (or at least trying to)
Now, I love a good view. Give me rooftops, viewpoints, towers, and I’m in. So the plan was to take the Zagreb Funicular up to the Upper Town. It’s one of the shortest in the world but famously steep.
We turned the corner and… nope. Doors shut. No sign. Not a whisper of activity. A quick Google confirmed it’s closed for renovations from January 2025 through to March 2026. We probably should’ve checked ahead but honestly, who has time to check these types of things for every itinerary item?
Plan B: our legs. We hoofed it up the hill and landed at Strossmayerovo šetalište, a leafy promenade that opens up into one of the best panoramas in the city. If you’re after that postcard view, this is where to get it. Rooftops in layers, cranes poking the sky, and a soft city hush you can only get above the noise.
The one we really came for… St Mark’s Church
Last stop: St Mark’s Church. That roof! Those tiles! The symmetry, the colours – it’s architectural serotonin. We mapped the address and route, strolled over, turned the corner and… another no. This time, police barriers. A surly officer told us entry was off-limits. No explanation, just a firm shake of the head.
We looped round to another entrance, thinking we’d cracked it – only to be met with the same barriers. We reckon there was some kind of event on, hence the lockdown. Either way, no entry for us mere plebs. At that point, we admitted defeat and headed back to the old town for a commiseration coffee and another pastry (Bread Club again, obviously).
And then – as if the universe heard our pleas – we turned one last corner, and there it was. St Mark’s Church, fully visible, no barriers, in all its glory. We couldn’t go inside, but we stood there for ages, just soaking it in. And, it was 100% worth the faff.
We celebrated with a cold Ožujsko and let the day sink in shortly after. Plans may have fallen apart, but moments like that? That’s the real serotonin filled stuff that travel can reward you with.
Our DIY walking route
If you’re short on time or just want to feel like you’ve ‘done’ Zagreb in a day, this route hits all the key spots with enough breathing room for coffees and detours.
Zagreb wasn’t perfect. It was unpredictable, a bit scrappy in places, and occasionally frustrating. But that’s what made it memorable. Not every trip needs to be polished. Sometimes it’s the near misses, the off-limits sights, and the surprise wins that give a city texture. And, we will be back some day to see the Cathedral in its restored glory and to take a ride on the funicular.
And, if all else fails, there’s always Bread Club.
TL;DR: What to Do in Zagreb
If you’re short on time (or just here for inspo), here’s your hit list:
- Grab breakfast at Bread Club – top-tier pastries, no debate.
- Rummage through Britanski Trg for vintage treasures and curios.
- Wander Dolac Market for fruit, flowers and local chatter.
- Catch the view from Strossmayerovo šetalište – rooftops for days.
- See the roof of St. Mark’s Church – geometric beauty worth the hype.
- Sip a cold Ožujsko and people-watch your way through the old town.
- Leave! Just kidding, but did you know that it’s incredibly easy to visit Ljublana from Zagreb?
Before You Go: Quick Facts About Zagreb
A few essentials before you jet off:
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Language: Croatian (but English is widely spoken)
- Population: Around 800,000
- Time zone: CET (Central European Time)
- Getting around: Walkable centre, trams for longer journeys (or if you’re just pooped)
- Funicular: Closed for renovations (Jan 2025 – Mar 2026)
- Best for: Coffee lovers, architecture nerds, and easy-going explorers
Last Updated on 6 months ago by Ryan | Irish Travel Addict
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